Marcus Wareing has long been associated with high end dining – his’Marcus at The Berkley’ (previously Petrus) and The Gilbert Scott follow a constellation of Michelin stars and prices all the way to another galaxy.
However, this three-floored West End venture is much more down to earth than extra planetary. In fact the name itself is derived from the butler in Agatha Christie’s ‘The Seven Dials Mystery’
Dishes created by Wareing’s Head Chef Andrew Ward are listed on an ornately antiquated menu card under the titles, ‘snacks’, ‘pots and jars’, ‘bread and buns’, ‘bowls’, ‘grills and smokes’, ‘salads and veg’, ‘fries and puddings’.
A highly contemporary use of combinations from all over the world with a ‘raised glass’ to health. Kimchee, wheatgrass and spirulina all feature. However, the bringing together of ingredients is no mystery. They look inspired. My heart invariably warms to any restaurant where, upon opening the menu there are tasty things that jump out at me like 3D pictures.
Amongst the snacks I chose a beetroot hummus with toast – simple, seasonal and a vibrant addition to any menu. Then from ‘pots & jars’ I ordered a shrimp cocktail which was overdressed if I am being picky.
However, you have to applaud the use of often overlooked brown shrimps, they are flavour-packed superstars in my book.
My continued perusal of the menu made me wish I had more time – so many tasty twists and turns.
I opted for the charred kale, quinoa, broccoli and ginger as my final savoury dish curious to see how the chef would approach this brassica once associated only with grannies. It was indeed charred and full of
flavour, the grains and ginger providing punch and texture in equal proportion.
For dessert I opted for a light spongey olive oil cake which was very well executed with tart brambles on top and a clever light custard mousse. This dish alone had me smiling like some cunning villain who
had stumbled upon the jackpot.
This restaurant is worthy of a sequel and I, for one, shall be back.
Tredwells – 4a Upper St.Martins Lane, London, WC2H 9NY